Why isn't Alphabet City more gentrified

new York : American cheers

The cashier sits in the wooden house at the entrance: a young Japanese woman with lots and lots of eye shadow and a standard uniform, a white T-shirt with a printed dirndl breast, a short skirt, knee socks and high-heeled shoes. You can buy yellow coupons from her for eight dollars, but whoever orders a Budweiser with them will come out as a banause. In the standard, you order Ayinger Weisse, Köstritzer Schwarz or Bitburger Pils, plus white sausage, sauerkraut and pretzel. A giant pretzel, because this is America, and The Standard is a beer garden in New York. That's why a lot here is a little different than in Munich. The offer also includes currywurst and Cheddar Krainer as well as cocktails at the bar.

The restaurant is located under the High Line, the disused tracks of an elevated railway in west Manhattan that have been transformed into a green promenade. The perfect location for two ping-pong tables and those chic people who usually only visit the Meatpacking District with its many clubs after dark.

The Standard is one of several beer gardens that have opened in New York in the past few months. They often have nothing more in common with the Bavarian original than the name. Well, and the fact that you can sit outside somewhere. New Yorkers got a taste for beer. Gone are the days of those canned misunderstandings that have so far helped to lift the mood in front of flat screens, on which your own baseball team lost again. Today it has to be fresh from the barrel, lower, upper and spontaneous, sour, strong and smoky.

In addition to foreign beer, local brews are enjoying unprecedented popularity. Brooklyn has developed into a veritable Mecca for lovers of fine hop drops. Newly founded microbreweries such as Greenpoint Beerworks or Six Point Craft Ales produce special beers here using traditional methods. Dozens of enthusiasts regularly come for tasting tours through the establishments and taverns.

It was only a small step from rediscovering the true grain juice to the need for places where it can be enjoyed in style. Even with the beer gardens, there is actually a renaissance. Because as late as 1900 there were over 800 such economies in New York. Most were run and visited by immigrants from Germany and Austria-Hungary. Only The Bohemian Hall and Beer Garden in Queens has survived. This Czech-Slovak institution has held its own quite successfully since 1919.

It is no coincidence that this oldest New York beer garden is also the most authentic. It forms an oasis in the middle of the not exactly picturesque Queens with everything that belongs to it according to the Bavarian Beer Garden Ordinance: gravel floor, long wooden benches and tables and, above all, thick, tall trees that provide welcome shade in summer. Even now, at the beginning of September, it is still over 30 degrees. The waitresses and waitresses who serve goulash and smoked ham, brouczech and staropramen here don't need the traditional costume look. On Sunday afternoons, they provide the families from the neighborhood with the same efficiency as the hipsters do late at night.

These represent the majority of the guests in New York's new beer gardens. They certainly determine the noise level in the Bia Garden on the Lower East Side. The bustling gastro entrepreneur Michael Bao Huynh sees his Vietnamese establishment as a free interpretation of the beer gardens. This garden, a back courtyard surrounded by walls overgrown with plants and wooden walls, is accessed through a tiny shop front and the underground cold room of the restaurant. Here there is more of a whisper bar feeling than a folk festival atmosphere. Only Asian beer is served, from Singha to Tsingtao, and there is also shrimp crackers and frog legs curry to eat. The conversations at the tables lit by candles begin with the analysis of obscure record labels and do not end with the criticism of Google's commitment to China.

New Yorkers are a trendy bunch. Especially when it comes to physical enjoyment. If the slogan "meatballs" is given, establishments spring up everywhere that only offer one dish - meatballs - but in countless variations. Including, of course, those for vegetarians. Is Bánh mì the hit and stomach filler of the day, do seasoned tie wearers debate in great detail where the best version of this Vietnamese sandwich can be found: in the nameless shack behind the cookshop down in Chinatown, which is known for its dim sum? No, the relationship between pâté, pressed sausage and mayonnaise is not right. At food counter number 24 in the mall in Flushing, Queens, where it's only as long as it's got? Acceptable, although the baguette could be crispier and the kick of chilli and pickled vegetables more pronounced.

Whether meatballs, Bánh mì or beer in gardens: To pinpoint the exact origin of this delicious delirium is proving to be extremely difficult. What is certain is that the immense culinary blog atmosphere that surrounds New York has a decisive influence on the success and expiration date of the respective must-eat-and-drink.

In any case, it is quite possible that tomorrow will present itself as a Tiki Bar, which today promises to be a round-the-clock and thigh-tapping. It is important to participate in New York's beer bliss as long as it lasts.



MORE NEW YORK BEER GARDENS
Radegast Hall and Beer Garden

Definitely more hall than garden in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, called Hipsterburg. Over 60 European beers, plus spaetzle and fresh from the grill. Lemonade is also served child-friendly in Pils sticks.

Studio Square

In Long Island City, Queens. New York's largest and most unoriginal new beer garden. At two mega bars you can stock up on Samuel Adams Cherry Wheat in plastic jugs, chili cheese nachos and sushi. It is best to stick to the parasols with the Radeberger and Gaffel Kölsch logos.

Loreley

Born in the Rhineland, Michael Momm opened the first Loreley in 2003 on the Lower East Side. A second has now been added in Brooklyn with a direct view of the Brooklyn Queens Expressway. In return, the Hofbräu Maibock is served in the appropriate measure, and the German menu is flawless.

To the dressmaker

The oldest beer garden of the new generation, opened ten years ago by Bavarian Sylvester Schneider in Alphabet City (Manhattan), which was not yet gentrified. Makes up for the fact that the garden is limited to a few chairs on the sidewalk with the in-house Lederhosen band, the "Mösl Franzi and the JaJaJa’s". In addition, the exquisite pretzels are imported directly from Germany.

The black Cologne

New in Fort Greene, more brasserie than beer garden, despite the more than three dozen types of German beer. Promises heavy toasting during the Cologne Carnival, the Munich Oktoberfest and on May 1st. Advertises Bionade big.

Berry Park

The "garden" is the roof of a converted warehouse in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. The inside resembles an oversized party room, with worn rugs and crouched leather sofas included. Offers Weihenstephaner and Belhaven Twisted Thistle Malty, Pretzel and Shepherd’s Pie. Judging by the numerous guests, the German-Irish marriage works.

Franklin Park
Converted garage in Prospect Hights, Brooklyn, a trendy otherwise undeveloped area. Large shady courtyard that is converted into an ice rink in winter. Twelve German and local beers on tap and cocktails. Until recently there was no menu, but you could order pizza or chicken from nearby restaurants.

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